Tom Colicchio needs to stop spreading himself so thin. The host of Bravo’s Top Chef has five branded restaurants with 13 outlets across the country. ‘wichcraft, his casual sandwich eatery, has 12 locations in NYC alone! (I ate at one in my neighborhood; it doesn’t have the flair it did when it first opened next door to Craft on 19th street.) Even his renowned flagship Craft, which lets the quality of ingredients sing for themselves like à la carte presents, has lost its luster. Not surprisingly, Colicchio & Sons has followed in this vein: Good but not great.